A 19th Century Inspired Full English Breakfast with Pork Belly and Bubble and Squeak

This recipe is inspired by the introduction of London’s first black cab in 1907, a moment that transformed city life. A fry-up has long been a cabbie’s favourite, a British staple that has fuelled long shifts for generations.

Few meals are as nostalgic or deeply satisfying as a full English breakfast. In this recipe, I’ve stayed true to the classic ingredients: sausages, eggs, tomato, beans, while championing bubble and squeak made from leftover potatoes and vegetables. I’ve chosen strips of pork belly in place of bacon for an extra meaty historical dish but bacon is always welcome too. Most meat benefits from being seasoned well in advance to ensure that the seasoning penetrates into the core of the meat. Ask your butcher to season your pork belly or do it when you get home. 

In 1900, the working class were more likely to eat brown bread rather than white, which was considered a luxury affordable mostly by wealthier households. This suits me as a wholefood chef, I think brown bread is so much more flavoursome and nutritious.

I find sausages cook best in butter, which helps them brown beautifully and develop a sweet caramelisation.

A fry-up consists of many components, so it’s best to cook items like the meat, mushrooms, tomatoes, and beans first that can keep warm in the oven in a roasting tin. Then, when the table is set, cook your toast and eggs last to ensure they’re perfect and not overcooked. Serve with optional salt, pepper, ketchup, brown sauce, buttered toast, and a cup of strong tea.

Ingredients: 

For the bubble and squeak:

• 250g leftover mashed potatoes or potatoes, chopped (skin on)
  
• 150g leftover cooked vegetables (cabbage, carrots, peas, etc.)
  
• 1 tbsp olive oil or butter
  
• 1 onion, sliced 
  
• Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper

For the full English:

• Butter, for cooking and serving
  
• Olive oil for cooking and serving
  
• 2 sausages
  
• 2 strips pork belly (pre-seasoned with plenty of sea salt at least 1 hour beforehand, ideally 24 hours) or 4 slices smoked streaky bacon
  
• 1 can baked beans
  
• Mushrooms, optional
  
• 2 slices brown bread, for toasting
  
• 2 eggs
  
• 10 sage leaves, optional 
  
• 1 large tomato, halved
  
• Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper, to serve
  

Method 

1. Preheat the oven to 90C (fan) to keep the food warm. 
2. First prepare the bubble and squeak. If you don’t have leftover mash, boil the potatoes in salted water until soft. If you're using fresh vegetables, cook these in the same pan. Drain well, allow to steam dry, then mash roughly together.
   
3. In a large pan, heat the butter or oil over a medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté for 10 minutes until soft and caramelised. 
   
4. Mix into the mashed vegetables, season to taste with freshly cracked black pepper and sea salt and return to the hot pan. Press into the base of the pan and fry for at least 10 minutes, only turning once the base has browned and formed a crust for extra flavour. Fold the mixture onto itself and repeat until hot and caramelised. Keep warm in a preheated oven.
   
5. For the Full English: Meanwhile, heat two large frying pans with the butter and oil over a medium heat. Add the salted pork belly strips (skin side down) to one and weight down with a bacon press or the base of a pan. Once it’s crispy turn and repeat on each side. Meanwhile, fry your sausages over a medium heat until brown on all sides and cooked through. Once cooked, transfer the meat into a tray in the oven to keep warm.
6. In the same pans, using the rendered pork fat, fry the halved tomato cut-side down without turning until charred. Add the mushrooms to the other pan, season well and saute until golden brown. Once cooked transfer into a roasting tin in the oven.
7. Heat the baked beans in a saucepan until piping hot.
   
8. When you are ready to eat, crack the eggs into the hot pan and sprinkle with the sage leaves and fry to your liking in the rendered fat.
   
9. Whilst you make the toast, plate up starting with the bubble and squeak, placing the egg on top, followed by your other ingredients surrounding. Serve with fresh sea salt, black pepper, ketchup, brown sauce, the toast and a strong cup of tea.