A 19th Century Inspired Full English Breakfast with Pork Belly, Bubble and Squeak

Written by Tom Hunt - award winning eco-chef and Guardian columnist

This recipe is inspired by the introduction of London’s first black cab in 1907, a moment that transformed city life. A fry-up has long been a cabbie’s favourite, a British staple that has fuelled long shifts for generations.

Few meals are as nostalgic or deeply satisfying as a full English breakfast. In this recipe, I’ve stayed true to the classic ingredients: sausages, eggs, tomato, beans, while championing bubble and squeak made from leftover potatoes and vegetables. I’ve chosen strips of pork belly in place of bacon for an extra meaty historical dish but bacon is always welcome too. Most meat benefits from being seasoned well in advance to ensure that the seasoning penetrates into the core of the meat. Ask your butcher to season your pork belly or do it when you get home. 

In 1900, the working class were more likely to eat brown bread rather than white, which was considered a luxury affordable mostly by wealthier households. This suits me as a wholefood chef, I think brown bread is so much more flavoursome and nutritious.

I find sausages cook best in butter, which helps them brown beautifully and develop a sweet caramelisation.

A fry-up consists of many components, so it’s best to cook items like the meat, mushrooms, tomatoes, and beans first that can keep warm in the oven in a roasting tin. Then, when the table is set, cook your toast and eggs last to ensure they’re perfect and not overcooked. Serve with optional salt, pepper, ketchup, brown sauce, buttered toast, and a cup of strong tea.

Ingredients: 

For the bubble and squeak:

• 250g leftover mashed potatoes or potatoes, chopped (skin on)
  
• 150g leftover cooked vegetables (cabbage, carrots, peas, etc.)
  
• 1 tbsp olive oil or butter
  
• 1 onion, sliced 
  
• Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper

For the full English:

• Butter, for cooking and serving
  
• Olive oil for cooking and serving
  
• 2 sausages
  
• 2 strips pork belly (pre-seasoned with plenty of sea salt at least 1 hour beforehand, ideally 24 hours) or 4 slices smoked streaky bacon
  
• 1 can baked beans
  
• Mushrooms, optional
  
• 2 slices brown bread, for toasting
  
• 2 eggs
  
• 10 sage leaves, optional 
  
• 1 large tomato, halved
  
• Freshly ground sea salt and black pepper, to serve
  

Method: 

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (fan) to keep the food warm. 

Bubble & Squeak

1. If not using leftovers, boil potatoes in salted water until soft, cooking any fresh vegetables in the same pan. Drain, steam dry, then mash roughly together.
   
2. In a large pan, heat the butter or oil over a medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté for 10 minutes until soft and caramelised. 
   
3. Mix into the mashed vegetables, season to taste with freshly cracked black pepper and sea salt and return to the hot pan. Press into the base of the pan and fry for at least 10 minutes, only turning once the base has browned and formed a crust for extra flavour. Fold the mixture onto itself and repeat until hot and caramelised. Keep warm in a preheated oven.

Fry Up:

1. The pork belly needs an hour in the oven, so start here. Heat a tablespoon of butter and oil in a frying pan, add the pork belly skin-side down and press with a bacon press or heavy pan base until crispy. Turn and repeat on each side, then transfer to a baking tray in the oven for an hour to tenderise, reserving the pan and fat.
2. With about 30 minutes to go, cook the sausages in the same pan over medium heat until browned all over and cooked through. Add the mushrooms, season well and sauté until golden. Transfer both to the oven. In the same pan, cook the tomatoes cut-side down in the remaining fat without moving them until lightly charred, then add to the oven. Heat the baked beans in a saucepan until piping hot and keep on the lowest heat.
3. When everything is ready, fry the eggs in the pan with the remaining fat, scatter over the sage leaves and season. Make the toast as the eggs cook.
4. When you are ready to eat, crack the eggs into the hot pan and sprinkle with the sage leaves and fry to your liking in the rendered fat.
   
5. Plate the bubble and squeak first, sit the egg on top, and arrange everything else alongside. 
6. Serve with sea salt, black pepper, ketchup, brown sauce and a strong cup of tea.